Ralph and Karen's Tours

A couple of magnificent days on the beautiful and varied island of Zakynthos. Now we know what all the hype and talk is about, and to be fair is all on the money.

We bid farewell to the lovely hostess Peppi at Ammoudi, and headed back into the port town of Zante to join our ferry back to the mainland. Because we’d experienced the mad panic of driving into the hull of the ferry, it wasn’t as bad this time around. Wasn’t fantastic, and some bumped and bent side mirrors later we were ushered to the top deck rather than the lower deck…

Old mate who was directing traffic in Greek of course, spotted Karen still in the car and just about lost his shit – “You!…..blah blah blah” – and pointed directly at her in the car……we knew what he meant, so she clambered out among all the other cars trying to park within an inch of each other and apologised profusely to old mate. I just winked at him and shrugged my shoulders with a fake exasperated look as if to say “ahh women!” And he became my bestie….patted me on the back when I parked and crawled out of the car confiding Greek secrets to me….

The short hour ferry trip was relaxing, and coffee and biscuits consumed we found ourselves back on the road in Kyllini on the mainland once again, preparing for the short drive down the Peloponnese to Olympia.

It was terrific to be back on a road that I could use gears 3,4,5,6 and do more than 30kmh. The outskirts of Kyllini are very industrialised, and as we headed inland, industry returned once again to farmland. I was of the misunderstanding that Olympia was set high in the hills. Far from it; it’s in a lovely valley surrounded by the most gorgeous vegetation, with stacks of eucalyptus trees lining the roadways. The drive took just over an hour, so we had the rest of the day to explore. It was mid thirties in temperature, but dry and comfortable.

The village of Olympia, like Delphi is a Two road affair – each one way and lined with Taverna, bars, hotels and souvenir shops. Our choice of digs for the night was the lovely Hotel Pelops which was perfect. Right on the edge of town, walking distance to the taverns and the archeological site of Olympia. And $60 a night including breakfast. Standard.

We headed straight up to the archeological site which was literally at the end of the street, paid our €12 entry fee which includes the museum and away we went. For anyone who has even an inkling of interest in any sport, quite apart from history, then You must do this.

There is evidence of sporting events having taken place in this area in the 8th century BC, the first known “Games” recorded as 776BC. The first known buildings were erected in the 600’s BC with the Classical Period of building and games being the 5th and 4th centuries BC.

It’s old, Man….

The site or Altis, is so lush, with greenery everywhere and two rivers running either side of the Altis. It’s gorgeous. The site fell into disarray over the ensuing years, and a French geological team started a dig early in the 1800s which was continued by a German team which has led to the site being on display for one and all to enjoy today and it’s magnificent.

The Temple of Zeus is a stand out. Old mate Zeusy was dominant in the spawning of the games, and even after his passing, kept sending messages of his approval by means of lightning strikes at every games thereafter.

The Temple of Hera stands proudly, alongside an altar where sacrifices were made to the gods.

The site where the original Olympic flame was lit and continues to be lit to this day for each and every Modern Olympic Games is nondescript and if it weren’t signposted you’d walk straight past it.

Apart From the Temple of Zeus, the highlight is without doubt the track, where most of the games were held. The area itself is probably 150m long and 40m wide, and made of dirt. It is apparently how it was back in the day.. the starting blocks are still there, and are solid marble….outstanding. And you can walk all over it – run a quick 100m if that’s your thing. I think it’s absolutely brilliant that this part of the Altis remains open to everyone. Well played Greckos.

The crowd entered into the arena through a covered archway/tunnel cheering and chanting for their heroes. 45,000 would squash themselves in and surround the playing surface sitting on grass hills – no grandstands for these bad boys. No fences to keep them off the field either. Half way down the field sits a series of benches for the judges and leaders. Can you imagine the atmosphere? The noise? The excitement? The athletes were paraded around the rectangular field before their idolising fans before and after the events. How good.

So after about 90mins we’d done the whole Olympic “Village”. One other highlight is the finding of a complete floor of original mosaic tiles that look brand new, in a building adjacent to the bath houses. How can this even be?

Anyway, we headed over to the archeological museum to check out some of the stuff that has been u covered through the digs and it’s amazing…glasswear! Glass blown bottles, bronze, gold, copper and earthen wear goods. Amazing.

All up about three hours very well spent and would do it all again tomorrow.

So, we needed a swim and we’re directed to the beaches on the west coast about 30mins drive away. The wind was up by now, so they were not very appealing and in short……they were not very appealing. Give it a miss.

It was a nice drive though!

It did lead to one of the funnier experiences we’ve had so far, among many to be honest but this was a belter. Actually, the rest of the day turned into an episode of Fawlty Towers….

On the way home from the “beaches”, we Called into a petrol station to fill up. The Lady proprietor greets me in a lovely Greek welcome. Realised I speak very very little Greek.

All of a sudden she says – “Finis…nothing…KAPUT!”

Bwahahaha who has ever had someone say “kaput” to them in a serious conversation? Last time I heard it was either Fawlty Towers or Gilligan’s Island.

I didn’t quite know what to say to be honest. But nearly wet my duds as I drove away and Karen said to me “Did she just say KAPUT?”

Anyway, no petrol in this petrol station.

After heading back to the hotel, we had a clean up and a couple of beers on the balcony before heading out for a feed. We chose Dinner in a fantastic traditional taverna restaurant recommended to us. A Greek “Manuel” (Fawlty Towers again) served us. And he was amazing.

Haha. I’m laughing now while I’m recalling it….while he was asking us for our drinks order, in mid sentence literally mid sentence he ran away – RAN AWAY – from us out into the street to try and drag some more customers into his Taverna…without luck. Anyway, he continued with us literally with the next word he was about to say to us originally…I knew this was going to be an experience…

“Drinks for you ?” One sparkling water and one Fix Beer please…

“Hmmmm – sparkling water tomorrow”

“Fix Beer – hmmm maybe tomorrow”

Ok, lemon soft drink and Mythos beer please.

“Hmmm Mythos only draft”

That’s fine

Meanwhile he delivers multiple bottles elsewhere.

Meal delivered and amazing.

Can I please have a Greek Coffee to finish?

“Hmmmm … Greek Coffee maybe tomorrow”

Gold!

I ended up getting my Greek Coffee served by Manuel (Greek version)

All through the service, he kept coming over conspiratorially and sneaking looks at the kitchen, the fridge, running out to the street…it was hilarious. And in the end, for food, the drinks, the entertainment, the circus value came to the grand total of €16.

OH THAT’s RIGHT…I nearly forgot… I went to get the bill from old mate. There is no bill…haha – of course there’s not.. “No Problem”. So, out comes a small note pad from under the desk and a pencil. Every time he went to write something down, he licked the tip of the pencil…I haven’t seen anyone do that since I was in primary school. It was like we were living a TV comedy sketch or Candid Camera episode. So, he and I recalled what he’d given us. We even recalled the stuff he didn’t give us.

We had a Greek salad with a two inch thick slab of feta cheese resting on top of about ten tomatoes, spinach pies, pork gyro, bread, beers, soft drink, ouzo and Greek coffee.

“You no pay for Grik corfee – I pay for yu!”

I love this place. And he got a good tip and chased me out the door to try and give it back..I was waiting for Basil to come out of a broom closet or something…ahhhh what an experience.

Olympia done and dusted.

To see more pics from Olympia click on this link

Now…..Proceeding down the Peleponnese to Pilos

Leaving Olympia behind after a quick hit and run visit of just 24 hours was like leaving an old friend behind, such was the friendly nature of this lovely little town. The history and beauty surrounding Olympia is almost overwhelming….

The three hour drive down the west coast was gorgeous. Predominantly hugging the coastline, but occasionally making steep climbs up and over the mountain ranges that Criss cross pretty much all of Greece.

Once again the road was narrow, windy and a little freaky in places, where with no guard rails on either side of the road passing other cars was sometimes a challenge……or waiting for a stray herd of goats to cross the road sometimes held us up.

This is genuine farming territory down here and the most popular vehicle on the road is a slow moving John Deere tractor. Because the roads are so windy, and narrow, getting caught behind a truck or tractor can seriously slow you down. Even without that, our average speed would be between 50-60kmh so while distances between towns are short, the time it takes is long.

That’s never really a problem though on a road trip like this, as the benefits are being able to check out the amazing scenery along the way, and we have a good supply of food and drink with us 🤓

Every turn presented stunning views of bays, harbours, beaches…these roads are called “highways” but are literally no better than suburban streets. In fact, when climbing through the mountains, you will often find yourself driving through someone’s backyard in the tiniest of villages..it’s great.

About half way we fell into the most gorgeous harbour town called Gialova, so we stopped for lunch and just admired the view…

We reached out destination of Pilos-Nestor which sits on the south west coast and we’re really very surprised at how beautiful this little village is. Just goes to show that no matter how much research you do, you can always be pleasantly surprised..

Approaching Pilos there is a series of pretty wild hairpin bends up high, dropping down to sea level. In every one of the bays below is some kind of swimming hole, Taverna, beach. When you finally arrive around a blind corner the town square sits right at a marina, where outdoor Taverna are set up to make the most of the ocean views.

At the back of the town square, the one semi circular roadway is filled with other indoor restaurants, cafes, food shops, bakeries, super markets, fish market, souvenir shops. It beautiful and all surrounded with huge shade giving trees.

Our accommodation was about 150m around the corner from the square, but right on the water with its own car park! Which was a pleasant change. Talk about location location location….

After checking in to our awesome room with a fantastic balcony overlooking the bay we took a walk around the square and sat for a relaxing cleansing ale….or two at one of the outdoor Taverna. Nice.

It was pretty warm, around 34deg so we were looking for a swim. So many choices! But our hotel owner told us of the best beach in the area in a neighbouring town of Methoni. Well, she wasn’t wrong.

All along the southernmost tip of the long, sandy beach sits a fortress that has been in place since the 13th century when this part of Greece was under the control of the Venetians. Initially it was built as a castle then had walls added over the following couple of hundred years to protect them from Pirates! Cool.

It has since been used as a prison, a cemetery, a castle for the local “leaders” to live in and army base. Now it just sits in all its glory around this beautiful cove, which is part of Navarino Bay as a proud reminder that the residents of this area were always safe…it’s just beautiful.

Back to the hotel and across the road to a fab restaurant that sits on the edge of the bay – literally on the edge of the bay – for another mouthwatering meal. This area still has quite an Italian feel to it, and many restaurants focus on Tuscan cooking. So, Karen followed the local suggestion to have a spaghetti and pesto dish that she says is among the best she’s ever had…

I had prawns in a saganaki sauce – originally I thought that was Japanese! Anyway, it’s a bunch of huge king prawns slowly cooked in a rich tomato and feta cheese sauce. Lordy Lordy…..accompanied by chunks of bread, another Greek salad (standard) and local wine and beer. Not a bad way to end the day.

We started dinner at about 10pm, and headed back to our hotel across the road around midnight as people were still arriving to start eating! Goodness me.

To see more of the beautiful area around Pylos and Methoni click on this link

In preparation of what is to be a reasonably long drive across to Monemvasia, we stocked up on more supplies – salami, cheese, tzatziki, olives, fresh bread. What more could you want?

Farewell west coast – it’s been a pleasure.