Today’s drive takes us from Pilos, in the Deep South west of the Peleponnese, in a region called Messinia across the bottom of an area known as The Mani, through some pretty rugged territory to the south east coast magical village of Monemvasia.
What. A. Drive.
It had bits of everything – including but not limited to panic, desolate sparse scenery, almost alpine geography pine trees and all, tiny villages, some of the scariest roads we’ve ever driven. Starting on the coast, we climbed across several mountain ranges, back down to amazing seaside villages, crossing two major Gulfs and through towns you’ve no doubt heard of like Kalamata (home of the enormous black olive) and Sparta (home of the Gladiator!).
Of course there are thousands you can’t pronounce! Seriously one of the great days driving. And only one or two minor disagreements between pilot and navigator (s) – remember our GPS guide is also Karen. Spare me.
About half way in, probably 90 minutes we took a planned detour to the coastal town of Gytheio which sits on the Laconian Gulf and it was perfect. We had our picnic lunch, some wine and beer and just needed a great location. We found it….a gorgeous beach, with table and chairs under an umbrella. Yes. Time for a swim in another picture postcard location.
Back on the road again, up into the hills, and across to the other side to some simply breathtaking views and in the distance stands the Greek equivalent of Gibraltar – the massive rock just off the coast of Monemvasia. Impressive.
There is no traffic inside the fort, so you park where you can, and walk up to the entrance to this fabled “city”. Pretty dramatic entrance. Of course you take everything you need with you.
The history of this place is just unbelievable..the island was founded/settled in 583 AD and has undergone control of the Byzantine, Ottoman and Venetian rulers. A fortress was built immediately, to provide text the mainland from approaching marauders, and developed over time, into a major maritime and trading port for the south east.
Typically over time, the fort was used for a range of different things – and spread to an upper level, which has not been cared for, and the lower town which has been gradually renovated and turned into a working city once again. There are a small number of “hotels” or pensiones that have been crafted into the rock face, and/or using existing buildings from the fortress.
It was only in 1971 that the 200m causeway was built to link the island to the mainland.
Similarly, a number of fabulous restaurants, Taverna and shops now do a roaring trade year round with locals enjoying the easy access to enjoy a beer and a feed in a magnificent location.
We stayed in a beautiful Pensione, with amazing views of the bay from our private balcony. The room was large, and all stone, with the bathroom having marble floors and the bedroom highlight being lovely windows with shutters looking directly out to sea, and also back toward the mainland. Without doubt the best place we’ve stayed this trip, and debate ensued about if this is potentially the best place we’ve ever stayed…..ooooohhhhhhh what? I’m voting yes.
Way above the lower level is the original citadel, which is quite a hike to get some of the best views in the region.
The laneways are all original cobblestone and it’s tough going at times (generally late at night) so you need to be mindful of slipping over. All around the island there are amazing bars that have taken over the best vantage points and out them to good use. Pretty much all eating and drinking is outside or on the rooftops of the fortress buildings.
I could go on…..it’s that kind of place.
We were pleasantly surprised that even though it is a tourist hot spot, it doesn’t have the “touristic” atmosphere. It is relaxed, quiet, lovely and not anywhere near as expensive as we expected. Our meals were wonderful….well, apart from being served one night by the most obnoxious maitre d ever, but that’s another story…BUT the food was awesome and the views to die for.
We had been speaking to a few locals over the previous days about things to do in and around Monemvasia, and a recurring suggestion was to visit a little known island south of there called Elafonisos. The stories,of azure blue waters and Caribbean like beaches were too good to refuse, so off we went.
Now, we’ve spoken about hair raising drives…well, this one takes the cake. 45 minutes up a mountainside, on a one lane road, average speed of 20 kmh. And then down the other side…wow.
Silence was golden in the car for that 45 mins..we popped out at a town called Pounta, which we had also never heard of before, and then had to load the car on a ferry/punt to take the 12 minute trip across – sure enough – the most astonishingly blue stretch of water I’ve ever seen. Loading the car was another experience, which I shouldn’t be surprised about anymore…this time we had to reverse onto the ferry….goodness me, all the while being yelled at in Greek that I had no clue.
We followed a trail of cars around through a beautiful little seaside port town, and around the island to Simi Beach. And we could have been in Tahiti, Caribbean, you name it. The beach is probably 200m long, in a crescent shape, with day lounges and umbrellas all along for rent of the miserly €5 per day. There was sand. Real sand. And people were just having an absolute ball, swimming, playing beach tennis, just hanging out.
We just ogled the water and dived in. And stayed in.
When we eventually removed ourselves from this freakishly coloured water, there were blokes wandering around taking food and drink orders…so, beer it is and….how about a gyro? No problem and delivered with the beer in a bag of ice and the gyro all set out in a container just ready to enjoy.
This is the life.
After several more visits back to the water, time had come to leave and make our way back across to the mainland and back to Monemvasia – up and over that brutal mountain. We managed it with a minimum of fuss and a minimum of conversation.
Approaching Monemvasia from the south gave us an amazing view of the size of the island and the unbelievable effort it must have taken to build the fortresses.
Pre dinner drinks tonight on the eastern most tip of the island, and the highest point of the lower village in a gorgeous cocktail bar. Perfect way to end one of the great days traveling.
If this place isn’t on your bucket list to visit, we’ll it should be.
Will be sad to leave in the morning when our trek continues north up the east coast toward Nafplio, the original capital of Hellas….
For more pics of our time in and around Monemvasia just click this link
Ralph and Karen's Tours 