Ralph and Karen's Tours

The ferry trip across from Crete to Naxos was ok. We traveled on a SeaJet Champion vessel, which is a fairly large catamaran, that has multiple levels, and also two car parking levels.

The prediction of rough seas had a few fellow passengers a bit nervous, but what can you do? The seating area is quite comfortable…large leather seats similar to aircraft seats but much bigger and more comfortable. A full cafe and bar on board and away we go. Can’t ask for much more?

The sea was a bit dodgy, rough even but nothing to be concerned over. On the way we had a brief stop to drop and collect passengers at Santorini and Ios which were quick and efficient. No hanging about today. The further we went the better the seas became.

Our 3 1/2 voyage ended up being just on 4 hours due to the seas, but was comfortable and relaxing.

When we got off in Naxos around lunchtime, another ferry had arrived, and obviously both were preparing to depart again, so the people traffic was manic. Almost gridlocked, with cars and trucks also trying to find their way aboard the ferries. Lots of police/water patrol officers blowing whistles and waving hands, but not much else.

We fought our way to the marina, and noticed straight away that the waterfront is very pretty, filled with shops, Taverna, Ouzeries, cafes all along the length.

To the left of the port standing atop a small hill, is a very petty monument called the Portara of Naxos, or the Door to the Island. It was the start of a temple that was never completed, for some reason and as it is facing the island of Delos, which was Apollos birthplace it’s considered a shrine unto him. Others like to claim it is in reference to Dionysus who is the God of Wine!

Built in 530BC, It’s stood the test of time, and is in a gorgeous location on the top of a small hill overlooking the entrance to the port. Lots of fantasising about what ifs and what fors around this Temple, but in reality it’s just a lovely place.

Naxos is the largest in the Cyclades group of islands, and like Crete is self reliant with a very successful farming and production culture. They too, have a lot of local food stuffs, not often found on other islands, like cheeses, wines and some vegetables. We sampled them all and can confirm they are all fabulous.

Behind the Marina/waterfront up in a hill lies the original city of Naxos. Another “Old Town” with a fortress above it. We’d done enough fortresses, but the Old Town was worth investigating later on.

There are a number of small islands in close proximity, with Paros another one popular with visitors to a Greek Islands just a short distance away.

Our accommodation is at the Palatia Hotel, a lovely small hotel right on the water at the closest beach to the “Chora” or Naxos town centre, called Agios Georgios (St George’s Beach) about a five minute walk around the point. One of the best locations we’ve stayed (other than Monemvasia) and a great verandah overlooking the beach directly in front of us.

Lots of restaurants and Taverna dot the beach front and do a roaring trade. This is a perfect family beach…water still, clear and shallow, with a huge long sandy beach. Sound beds and umbrellas everywhere, waiters serving food and drinks….and so that’s how we spent the rest of the day.

It was Karen’s birthday today, so we wanted somewhere particularly nice to have dinner. We were recommended a little French Restaurant up in the Old Town behind the Marina which specialised in local produce and imported French wines. Sounded like a plan.

So off we went around 9.00pm – standard now – in search of this restaurant called La Vigne. Into the Old Town and it was beautiful. Restaurants and shops all seemingly dug into the cliff face, and like caves, all in tiny little alley ways like a rabbit warren. Every now and then you pop out into the open and on a verandah, restaurant tables and chairs with sensational views over the bay appear.

We eventually found La Vigne with a little bit of effort….but it was worth it. These two lovely French ladies set themselves up in this little restaurant that has only 6 tables – two inside and four along a laneway outside 8 years ago and never looked back.

They source all local organic produce for their regularly changing menus, and have imported French wines and champagnes to go with some of their favourite Naxian local wines.

The menu was pretty amazing and so different, so we went with some of their recommendations which included chicken pate with ginger and lime – wow. A local Naxos cheese dish that’s really difficult to explain the consistency, but similar to ricotta, made into balls mixed with leek and shallot….

A bottle of French Champagne was a perfect accompaniment. To get started. They also had an organic beer from a neighbouring island that needed tasting……

 

The mains were similarly amazing – a chicken curry, and marinated sardines and whitebait in a lovely fresh salad.

We needed wine to match each course – of course. So next was a French white Viognier that was pretty good….I like their choices so far.

Then they brought Karen out a chocolate mousse with a candle in it. And so we then had to have more wine – Karen a dusty rose and me a full bodied and beautiful French Malbec. Mmmmmmm. There were only a couple of others dining there, so we had a great opportunity to chat with the owners about their time in Naxos, and our trip to France last year.

It was like being at a friends house for a dinner party. Perfect.

So we wandered off down through the old village and headed back to our hotel.

One of the highlights of our entire trip was planned for the next day- a day on a chartered yacht sailing out of Naxos around some of the many islands in the area. Due to recent high winds and seas in the area, which apparently is quite uncommon for this time of the year, they had cancelled the previous three days due to safety concerns…

They had been fantastic keeping in touch with us, and to say we were disappointed that this may not proceed was a massive understatement.

We got an email late in the afternoon, saying the weather conditions were still showing high winds, but if we were prepared for that, they could still guarantee us an adventurous and enjoyable day.

No decision to make! We’re in!

We headed down to the Marina early and had breakfast – note to self and anyone else – do not have the cheese, bacon and egg bagel…

Anyway, we found our boat and our Captain Panos and his lovely wife Irena preparing the boat for sailing. It’s a lovely Sun Odysee yacht that is capable of taking 25 passengers, but today we have 9.

It has loads of Deck space, a comfortable cabin and is just delightful. We had our safety briefing which took approximately 30 seconds and away we went.

Immediately we left the port, we entered some fairly open seas to get across to the other side of the island and it was a bit bumpy. Before too long, The Skipper was in his element, with both sails up and we were flying along non motorised.

He had a grin from ear to ear, and kept saying “This is really sailing”. The wind was at around 18-20 knots apparently, which is perfect for this type of sailing. We had a bit of a lean going, so everyone across to the other side….it was an absolute blast.

They offered coffee, soft drinks (later on beer), fruit, biscuits and gave very informal, but informative info on the land marks we were passing. It was just beautiful. Temperature around 28 degrees, wind in your hair, water spraying over the bow…loving life.

After about 2 hours of sailing, we pulled around a corner into a sheltered bay that was as still as, with water like glass. It was about 7metres deep, but you could see everything in the bottom as if it was 1 metre below you. So, it didn’t take long to dive in and enjoy what was without doubt the clearest water we’ve ever seen or swum in.

No rush to move on, so back on and off the boat a few times, before Captain Panos (now my bestie) offers to take us to an even BETTER place….Captain Panos has been doing this or 18 years, so he knows every cove, cave, bay, beach, inlet around the whole Cyclades…just ask Him! Haha. He’s a champ.

So sailing again under full sails across some rough seas, and again into another bay he calls the “Swimming Pool”. And you can see why….CLEARER water than the previous stop, surrounded by limestone cliff faces. It’s becoming obscene now.

I’d noticed that I was the only person diving off the boat into the water. Everyone else were doing pencil dives, or safety jumps…it was pretty funny. Anyway, at this stop there is a rock formation above a cave that is about 3 metres high. Pretty tough getting out of the water with ropes to assist and a rocky climb to the top.

So, a perfect place to head and dive off. From the reaction of the people on our boat, you’d have thought I was trying to commit suicide! Karen was on camera duty and she got some amazing photos of……the splash AFTER I’d dived in.

So, I climbed back out and did it all again…..same result. Great splash pics. Seriously.

Most of the others on the boat made the climb, but like before did pencil drops and screamed like their lives were at an end. It was hilarious.

Irena carries a go pro with her all day, and takes a bunch of photos, planned and random, as well as some video. At the end of the day she gave us a disc with a bunch of pics and vids as a keep sake – we haven’t seen it yet, but look forward to it. She tells me she got some video of my dives….”Just in case Miss Karena misses the photo”.

We swam around the other side of the boat and found ourselves in a at that was probably 80 metres long and 50 metres wide and very deep, with aqua blue water. And we were the only two people in there. Talk about pristine.

Back on board again, and reluctantly leaving this place we sailed to a little island called Koufanissi for lunch at a little Taverna on the Marina. Beautiful.

Our next stop after about an hour of sailing with no motor, was to one of Panos’ favourite places. A massive limestone cave off to the side of another little bay. He loaded a kayak into the water, with a massive halogen spotlight, and a car battery and paddled inside the cave. We all dived into the water and followed him. What happened next was just mesmerising – the lamp made the water an electric blue, and you could see everything inside the cave, including bats as if it were day time. The water was cold. He was cracking me up – “Welcome to Panos cave!” And showing it off as if it were his own. Brilliant.

More sailing, through some bigger swell and the wind was increasing, so he was in his element and sailing like the pro that he is. Every time we were approaching something a little uncomfortable they warned us to be ready for rough seas, or water spraying over the bow, or sides. Everyone took it in their stride and really enjoyed the challenge.

He had another trick up his sleeve, and just like magic he found a ridiculously sheltered, quiet cove for one last refreshing swim. God knows how, but it ended up in an impromptu diving lesson…..given by Ralphy!

As Ralph was the only one diving into the water, the kids asked him how he did it, so lessons were given from the bow of the boat, into the crystal clear 6m deep water that looked about 1 m deep, with rocks right there….then some of the parents joined in….

A few belly flops, and almost somersaults but generally success and a lot of laughs. And photos. Again, how do we end up in these situations?

Heading back we were confronted by a pretty savage head wind, and decent sized seas, The Skipper reckons 2-3 m, so the sails were Put away and we ploughed head long into the breeze, bouncing over the waves “like a roller coaster” he said. We had turns standing right at the bow, where you could really experience the lift and fall of the boat through the swell. A bit different to Leo and Kate’s famous scene. It was pretty exciting.

As a result, we were about an hour late arriving back at the dock – exhausted, sunburnt, wet but thoroughly thrilled at the day we’d just had.

Panos and his missus kept apologising for the conditions, but we all thought it was just a great day out and wonderful experience. We’d do it again in a heartbeat.

Back to the hotel for a much loved shower, and out for dinner down the beach – a great meal on our last night in Naxos.

Dinner on the beach was in one of several Taverna lined up along the sand, similar to Jimbaran Bay in Bali, with lights of surrounding villages, and even from the neighbouring island of Paros creating a great view and atmosphere. Just no one coming along to sell you hair braiding, bracelets, tasers….well there was one bloke who dropped a bunch of stuff on our table, and came back an hour later and picked them up again – random. I think they were cigarette lighters, ashtrays, and other rubbish like that…actually a model of an angry bird, a Pokemon and the donkey from Shrek. How Karen remembers that is just part of her autism kicking in.

Our last day was pretty cruisy – sleep in, breakfast delivered to our balcony, packed bags and we just wandered around the town checking stuff out. We walked up to the Temple of Apollo which is indeed impressive. We stopped for lunch on the waterfront, and to have just one last Gyro before we head home. The waiter knew people from Australia – of course he did. At least they weren’t his relatives 😎. Anyway, when he realised we were from Owstrayleea he started some good banter, then brought out the coldest beer glass in the history of Greece. AND the beer bottle came out in a stubby holder with Australia all over it! Gold from old mate Mario. I knew I liked this place.

We are currently on the ferry from Naxos to Piraeus (Athens) where we have one night, and the full day tomorrow before our flights home. We were chatting and reviewing the last 3 1/2 weeks as we always do on the last couple of days and we decided a few things..

– If the beds were softer and showers more consistent we could stay for another month. Doesn’t matter if the room costs €50 or €250 the beds are tough and there are never enough pillows. Minor gripe.
– Value for money, the only rival is Indonesia. We reckon we’ve spent less than half of what we spent in France last year for the same duration. In all honesty, if you wanted to, you could eat, drink, be merry and entertain yourself for around $120 per day for two people, not including your accommodation. Beer and a gyro for AUD$6 sums it up.
– The people are hard working, proud, passionate and family oriented. The families work in their family tavernas, shops, fruit markets, whatever and it works for them.
– Off the main motorways (and there are not many of them, let me tell you) the roads are hard work. But are great fun at the same time, as you never know what’s around the next hairpin – it could be an olive grove, a deserted beach, a glorious bay, or a truck full of goats heading up a one way pass….it’s great.
– The food is brilliant as it’s pretty much all local produce, often from their back yards. Including the poison Tsiporou and Raki. Fresh is the expected. Italy is really the only contender as far as we can agree on for fresh, tasty, imaginative foods. Ralph is in the Greek corner and Karen is supporting Italy, but it’s a close match.
– Beer and wine – superb. There are so many beer varieties, and now a burgeoning craft brew market that every day offers great new options. Apart from the Champagne a couple of nights ago, we only ever drank local carafes of wine – generally rose – occasionally red and/or white and we didn’t have a bad one. Seriously. A half litre carafe (funnily they call it a half a kilo – which mathematically is actually correct) costs between €2.5 and €3.80, so it is a real bargain. We have no idea how they can make it so cheap 😜
– What brought us back here this trip, was to indulge in the fascinating history of Greece. And it didn’t let us down. Some simply remarkable sites, beautifully preserved and presented and serving as brilliant lasting reminders to all of us that Greece was the forerunner of civilisation as we know it today. Democracy rules, and so do dolmades and tarmosolata salad!

When we get home we will add a bunch more photos to our “Gallery Page” on this blog site, including those from the sailing day. Sometimes pics don’t do justice to the surrounds, but I’m sure you’ll agree that some of them do.

For more of a look around Naxos check out our pics at this link

Thanks for following along (if you’ve made it this far you deserve a medal). We’ve had a ball, and loved sharing it with you all. If you have any questions about any of this, just let us know.

So now we prepare for another quick visit to Bali in March ’18 and the big decision of where to after that?

Any suggestions?…………..

Kalynichtra

Ralphy and Karen