Ralph and Karen's Tours

The precinct of Ninh Binh sits proudly in the North of Vietnam, around 2 hrs drive south of Hanoi.

It’s a mesmerising area with so much deep history and culture that we just had to visit.

It’s known as “Halong Bay on land” due to the dramatic limestone formations surrounding gorgeous waterways. It is a UNESCO protected site and for good reason.

One of the then villages of Hoa Lu was the nations capital in the 10th and 11th centuries due to its protected location among limestone karsts and waterways.

The honour of the nations capital transferred to Hanoi in the years that followed.

Our day started early with a pick up in a luxury small bus to transport us south to explore the region.

The bus passed so many farms, rice fields, villages along the way that the green countryside was only different due to the depth of the greenery.

Our first stop was in the village of Ninh Binh where we hopped onto push bikes that would have been state of the art in 1972 for a leisurely ride around the lakes and countryside.

Whoever thought riding a single sprocket, non electric bike with dodgy wheels and brakes in 35 degree temps with humidity at 360% is a madman. I need to reconsider my life choices. Karen wisely chose to wander around the village while laughing at me.

Despite all that it was magnificent.

Along back roads, down sleepy lanes exploring long forgotten temples and pagodas, meandering past rice paddies and lakes that can only be seen in pictures or the movies. It was superb.

But the breakneck speed caught me unawares and before too long it seemed like we’d ridden 100kms. I was cooked. Along with the other 9 combatants.

We ended the ride at a magnificent temple from the 1500s which was a pleasure to explore.

A quick 15 minute ride to our starting point had us ready for a fantastic local lunch. I was happy to find a nice bed for a relaxing snooze …

We went a little further into the province and found ourselves at Trang An a majestic inland waterway where we were rowed around for a couple of hours in a sanpan by a lovely local lady.

Limestone karsts exploded out of the waterway, we rowed into caves hundreds of metres long and explored all the wild life in the area. What a gorgeous way to explore this area. But the timber seats in the sanpan were a bum killer after two hours.

Last but not least on this day of adventure was a visit to Mua Cave which isn’t actually a cave but a limestone cliff face that has 500 steps carved into it for the brave (or stupid) or both to climb.

Hang Mua is a challenge. There’s no doubt about it. And after a long day already and the temps hovering around the high 30’s there was a bit of trepidation among the visitors.

There are two viewing areas – one at the 300 step elevation and the other for the serious nutcases or amazingly fit at 500 steps.

These are not your ordinary household steps. They’ve been carved into the face of the limestone karst hundreds of years ago for locals to climb and pay their respects to their gods.

Each viewing area presents a different view over the lush landscapes hundreds of feet below.

I was gobsmacked by the number of climbers but more importantly the nu bet of elderly people making this pilgrimage – in talking people in their late 70s and 80s. Slow and steady but most made it.

Karen made it about half way and I battled on to make it to the 300 step elevation. And I was stoked.

Then I had to come down and with about 100 steps to go my thighs almost gave up on me. But I made it in one piece with my clothes stuck to me like I’d been in a shower.

It was tough but so rewarding at the end.

So a long trip back to Hanoi to end a very enjoyable, physical and knowledgeable day.

Straight in the shower and straight to the bar and an end to a wonderful experience in Hanoi which was pleasing on so many levels.

Now we head to Halong Bay for a couple of days exploring.